So it’s a week since I returned to our frozen Isle from a month in the Alps and it seems only right to bosh out a quick report about the awesome conditions available in England and Wales.
There really has been a deep freeze throughout the UK, with many rare to form ice routes seeing ascents, “The Shield” on the Ben has undoubtedly caused me the greatest pain and I can only hope that it will be in condition later this month.
Winter climbing in The Peak District has been in full swing this last week, with numerous ascents of Mam Tor Gully, Back Tor and Kinder Downfall.
I believe that the main face routes on Mam Tor never hit prime condition. This is usually due to the turf just being too dry, before the freeze sets in and can make the face both terrifying and dangerous to climb. Mam Tor gully has also seen several ski descents. Driving past on Friday (7th February) the tufty South face is now stripped of snow, although the N face and gully may well still be skiable.
Friday 7th February
Over on Kinder, it was amazing to have a brilliant days ski mountaineering on Friday. James Turnball, Josh Fawcett and myself skinned up from Edale, and across the great plateau to arrive at the Downfall. We found one other skinning track around the rim and it was really cool to be sliding along the great wilderness of Kinder Scout, with breath taking views on all sides. The Downfall climb and Downfall Right Hand both had great ice on them on Friday. The Direct was a long way off and the direct finish to Right hand was probably climbable (although I did see a large chunk of ice dislodged on abseil). I was also amazed by the other ice climbing potential here, with some smaller steeper icefalls up to the left (none quite safely climbable) and a great icefall out to the right. We climbed the initial section of downfall climb, before traversing out right to have a look. Unfortunately sun crept round the corner (about 12pm) and with the steep chandelles looking ominous near it’s top, we decided to give it a careful top rope instead. It turned out to be an awesome little icefall (about vi 6), which in hindsight would have been OK without the sun. The ski descent down slopes to skier’s right of Jacobs Ladder left something to be desired, back in the shade at 3pm, providing it with an icy crust. All in all though, a wicked day. If only you could go ski touring in the Peak District every week.
4th and 5th February
North Wales has also provided a couple of great days climbing this week. I’ve never seen a cliff so hoared up and icy in England or Wales as Clogwyn Du was on Wednesday. Thanks for Phil Hargreaves patience on the ultra classic El Mancho, one of the best mixed routes I’ve climbed for a long time! We then took advantage of the great ice on Left Hand Branch. Thursday saw another early start with James Turnball, heading to Crib Goch for a change. Unfortunately some rain and warm temperatures on the approach, scared us off and sent us running for the most reliable (and busy) destination. That said we never had to queue for any routes and after recovering from our 50 minute approach we climbed Pillar Chimney. This has a brilliant icefall up the mouth of the chimney pitch at the minute, really fun Vi 6 climbing. We finished off on Cleft Gully, which also has great ice on the first pitch right now.
News from the Lake District is that high North facing crags, such as Scafell are staying hoared and frozen, while crags like Bowfell buttress have been thawing out. Hopefully more on this soon.
It looks like we’re beginning to see the start of a thaw right now and nothing this good lasts forever, so get out there amongst it in this winter wonderland.
crookclimbing 